17 November 2015

The story of my East Prussian roots. Part II

Curonian Spit and
 Curonian Lagoon
Where in the world is Memel? Why can’t I find it in a world map? Hold on: if it’s a German city, why do my searches keep redirecting me to Klaipeda, a city within Lithuanian borders? So many unanswered questions. This place is so geographically far away from Germany! I must have mixed the names up. What an interesting and unique topography, though! A 100-kilometer long strip of land, so slender and yet so stout, menaced by a threatening Baltic Sea and preventing it to absorb an apparently defenseless lagoon. I definitely had to go check this place out, even regardless my ancestral ties to it.

When planning this quest for traces from the past, the first natural question that arose was how to get there; what are the nearest airports? Riga? Kaunas? Sure enough there must be flights from Germany. And yet, the charm of that place is its bond to the sea. There had to be a way to get there by water. Plus, a ship trip on the Baltic Sea has to be a magnificent experience. So I started to check out possible embarking ports. Kiel, Copenhagen, Malmö, Karlshamn, Danzig, Stockholm.

All very attractive alternatives for the travel enthusiast I am. By and by the Baltic Sea became a major interest for me. And being Memel so connected to it, I decided to take the journey to the next level and explore as much as I could from that region. The travel route I came out with can be seen in this map:
Red: Journeys by train. Green: Journeys by ship. Blue: Journeys by bus. 
I started by flying from Stuttgart to Copenhagen and I spent a couple of days in this lovely city. An immaculately clean city with a seaport flair: neat parks, fancy yachts, and fresh fish. Then, off to Malmö by train: a train that first goes over a bridge over the sea and then sinks underneath it only to reemerge on the other shore, in Malmö, Sweden. A magic trick. An impressive feat of engineering. I doubted whether or not my grandfather had been to these Scandinavian places, but realizing I was in the vicinity of territories so familiar to him and so alien to me, gave me the chills; as much as I was enjoying these Swedish landscapes, I couldn’t wait to get to Memel. From Malmö off to Karlshamn by another train, the ride on which was a real bliss. I have heard complaints about Swedes and their trains, but hardly have I felt more delighted in any other train journeys. Now Karlshamn is a cozy and charming little town, worth a separate blog entry for itself. I will proceed to describe the Memel part of this trip though, and get back to Karlshamn in another occasion.

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