Showing posts with label Back to East Prussia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Back to East Prussia. Show all posts

17 November 2015

The story of my East Prussian roots. Part II

Curonian Spit and
 Curonian Lagoon
Where in the world is Memel? Why can’t I find it in a world map? Hold on: if it’s a German city, why do my searches keep redirecting me to Klaipeda, a city within Lithuanian borders? So many unanswered questions. This place is so geographically far away from Germany! I must have mixed the names up. What an interesting and unique topography, though! A 100-kilometer long strip of land, so slender and yet so stout, menaced by a threatening Baltic Sea and preventing it to absorb an apparently defenseless lagoon. I definitely had to go check this place out, even regardless my ancestral ties to it.

When planning this quest for traces from the past, the first natural question that arose was how to get there; what are the nearest airports? Riga? Kaunas? Sure enough there must be flights from Germany. And yet, the charm of that place is its bond to the sea. There had to be a way to get there by water. Plus, a ship trip on the Baltic Sea has to be a magnificent experience. So I started to check out possible embarking ports. Kiel, Copenhagen, Malmö, Karlshamn, Danzig, Stockholm.

All very attractive alternatives for the travel enthusiast I am. By and by the Baltic Sea became a major interest for me. And being Memel so connected to it, I decided to take the journey to the next level and explore as much as I could from that region. The travel route I came out with can be seen in this map:
Red: Journeys by train. Green: Journeys by ship. Blue: Journeys by bus. 
I started by flying from Stuttgart to Copenhagen and I spent a couple of days in this lovely city. An immaculately clean city with a seaport flair: neat parks, fancy yachts, and fresh fish. Then, off to Malmö by train: a train that first goes over a bridge over the sea and then sinks underneath it only to reemerge on the other shore, in Malmö, Sweden. A magic trick. An impressive feat of engineering. I doubted whether or not my grandfather had been to these Scandinavian places, but realizing I was in the vicinity of territories so familiar to him and so alien to me, gave me the chills; as much as I was enjoying these Swedish landscapes, I couldn’t wait to get to Memel. From Malmö off to Karlshamn by another train, the ride on which was a real bliss. I have heard complaints about Swedes and their trains, but hardly have I felt more delighted in any other train journeys. Now Karlshamn is a cozy and charming little town, worth a separate blog entry for itself. I will proceed to describe the Memel part of this trip though, and get back to Karlshamn in another occasion.

13 September 2015

The story of my East Prussian roots. Part I

I made such a fuss about this family Königsberg story that now I don't know where or how to start. I hope I manage to tell a story that lives up to the expectations. To tell this story means, in a way to tell my own story, so I think that's how I'll start.

I was born a good Monday morning in Guayaquil, Ecuador, to Bolivian parents. My mother’s side has a rather important Spanish ancestry, mostly from the Basque Country, a distinctive region with a millennial history in the north of Spain. As a result of our colonial past, we Latin Americans are a mixture of three groups of races: European (mostly Hispanic), Native American and African (for myriads of slaves where brought by the conquistadors for the hard labor).

German surnames, though, are not that common in that part of the world. When I was a child, Germany was a distant place somewhere in Europe where it was cold; where cars came from; where Playmobils came from. Later, it was also that fearsome soccer team that could defeat my dear Brazilian team. And then, sadly enough, it was the country where Nazis came from: where all the bad guys in war movies came from; the country with that horrible-sounding language.

It was known to us that my grandfather was half-German; that his father had been sent to South America, had gotten married, had had children, had established there and had never made it back to his country. My grandfather Erich was very talented; I always thought highly of him: he was able to build river boats, fix any electricity problems, fix roofs, set up traps for menacing animals, prepare pizzas, and so on. His father used to speak German to him, so he spoke it, too. We knew it, but unfortunately we never took advantage of it; we never asked much about his father. It is a real pity that he passed away before our interest for his father’s homeland arose. There are so many questions we would have liked to ask him.

After graduating from the university I decided I wanted to pursue a master’s degree in Germany. My curiosity about Germany had been growing and I got interested in the German language and the German culture. I was often amazed by small things, trivial aspects of Germany that reminded me of my grandfather’s ways. It was like understanding in many ways why he was the way he was. Naturally, I had thought of searching up relatives of my grandfather, but being Hoffmann such a common German surname, and with little notions as to where or how to start, I deemed the task impracticable.

Once, looking into some old documents, my parents stumbled upon a certificate that stated that my grandfather’s father, Erich Hoffmann-Szemkus, had been born in a town called Memel, in Prussia. Little did we know by then about Prussia. We knew our ancestry was German, but Prussia was hitherto a totally unknown term. Even more amazed was I after finding out that Memel was now called Klaipeda and that it was a port city in Lithuania. This fact puzzled me. I had not expected my great grandfather’s hometown to be so far away from “Germany”. I could not leave the matter just like that, I had to find out more. What was this territory? What is that German city doing up there so “lonely”? I was determined: I had to go check that place in person.